Skip one blockbuster museum on your next city break and visit a house museum instead
The big famous museums are magnificent and exhausting. A house museum is the opposite: somebody's actual home, kept roughly the way they left it, with the art hanging where they chose to hang it. You see a painting the way its owner saw it every day, over a fireplace, next to a clock, very slightly crooked. Two that stayed with me: the Musée Jacquemart-André in Paris, a collectors' mansion where Italian Renaissance paintings share the rooms with the sofas, and Museum Van Loon in Amsterdam, a canal house where you walk past generations of family portraits and out into a garden with a coach house at the end. Small rooms, small crowds, and more than once a guard has kindly pointed me toward a chair. Where are yours?
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Create an accountSir John Soane's Museum in London, and it isn't close. An architect's house crammed floor to ceiling with columns, casts, paintings on hinged panels that swing out to reveal more paintings, and an actual Egyptian sarcophagus in the basement. Less a house museum than a tour of one man's magnificent hoarding problem.
Walls of paintings on hinges is the most efficient gallery design I've ever heard of. He folded his collection like a pop-up book. Straight to the top of my list.